Pattern review – Camille knickers

I have recently been making knickers to go with my homemade bra collection, those bras all use non-stretch main fabric so I have been searching for a knicker pattern that is non stretch too, or a combination of non stretch and power mesh.

On that note I decided to try the Camille knickers by Evie La Luve for £7.20. I liked the slightly vintage, casual style of them and the fact they are designed to sit on your hips. I thought they might be most suitable for sleep wear as I’m not sure how visible they would be under clothes due to their loose nature.

To begin with I thought I would use some scrap fabric to make some trial ones, as I don’t have a lot of the fabric I made my bra with and these use quite a lot of fabric, a recommended 1.2 m, hardly a pattern to use up your scraps.

I measured myself and I came right in between two sizes, usually I size up on a – I can always cut it down- philosophy. This was a big mistake. At the stage before you wrap them round the sides they look enormous, I wish I had taken a photo against me. It freaked my bf right out, he’s not exactly sizest but they were probably about 4 times my actual size!!!!

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Even overlapping my layers they were still completely huge on me, I could have probably fit me and my little sister in them together.

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One of the other issues I had was sewing the lace around the lower edges. The idea is to line one edge of the lace up with the bottom of the fabric, sew across the top and cut any excess fabric away under the lace. The pattern asks for rigid lace, but of course then sewing it round a bend is an issue because the inside seam of the lace is shorter than the outside seam would be . This means the lace won’t hang in the same way as the fabric, you get creases, it’s impossible to keep the length of the shorts the same as the original fabric. It was a real problem and the wider the lace the more problem. I notice she has used a wavy lace and that is a bit more flexible round bends. I feel that that should feature in the instructions.

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The crotch of the knickers isn’t lined with cotton, so I am not sure how fresh they would be if you were wearing them for a period of time.

As the first ones were miles too big I took them back apart to save all the lace and elastics and made the next ‘real’ pair the next size down. A chat with some sewing folks online informed me that they’d had to go down a size too. I used the fabric I used for my longline Marlborough bra.

I had the same lace problem as the first set but they looked good finished flat. But I HATE them. They just look all wrong on, the shape of them on just doesn’t feel right at all, they don’t hang nicely. Maybe the fact that the lace I used isn’t wavy is part of the problem, but they are really not flattering, they are OK at the back but at the front there’s something weird going on between the legs. Retrospectively I looked at the example ones and wondered if it was the design or my body shape. Either way I am now spending the next few hours taking them apart to reuse the fabric/elastics on something I like more.

I really wanted to be more positive as I try and support small businesses but I have wasted hours sewing and dismantling the pattern and I wish I’d never bothered. I fully appreciate that other people may have more success but I can’t find anyone who really likes them. Except maybe my cat who wanted to sit on them.

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I guess my final words are, after all of that a free very similar version has been released here and you could have a go without worrying about money. it may be that they look right on you not all clothes suit all people.

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Montgomery Briefs

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I figured out it was time I made some matching knickers to go with those bras of mine, I wanted to be able to use the same fabrics as I did for the bra so that everything can match. This meant that I wanted a pattern that had some sort of woven no stretch main fabric and power mesh parts which do stretch.

There are a few to choose from but I have started with the Montgomery brief by Orange Lingerie, I downloaded the pdf pattern and stuck it together (which I don’t mind doing when there aren’t too many pages). I chose this pattern as they don’t have elastic round all of the leg so they don’t give a VPL, instead they have a double layer of power mesh.

I fell right between the two sizes, so I made both to see which were most comfortable, probably the bigger ones as I quite like boxer style briefs that cover your bum and the bigger size had more bum coverage.

The lace is from Vintage to live by on Etsy, a shop I’m slightly addicted to, there are so many beautiful pieces of lace on there! I used most of it to make this Marlborough bra also from Orange lingerie, and they’ll match it.

The instructions are good except one part I found a bit confusing, the two back pieces it’s hard to tell between the centre back seam and the waist, it does say on the pattern but it took me a minute or two to make sure I was sewing the right bits together. Otherwise they were very clear.

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I’m extremely happy with my first lingerie set. What do you guys think?

 

 

Marlborough III

 

Well, I promised myself I was going to stop making Marlborough bras but then I found this beautiful lace on Etsy from Vintage to live by.

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And, well, I bought it, you know how it is!

So as this is fourth go at the Marlborough bra I didn’t really make many adjustments, I just made the band a little lower around the underarm as after a whole days wear I noticed the other ones rubbed a little. That meant just making the curve across the top of these three pieces a little lower.

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The experience of the other bras meant this one came together very quickly with no issues.

I have to say it’s so beautiful I can’t really get over the fact that I made it myself. I’m in love with it and so proud.

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Even the insides are lined and beautiful.

I hope you all love it as much as I do.

 

 

Longline hack of the Marlborough bra

I’ve been lusting after some very nice longline underwired bra patterns recently, but there aren’t many in my size so I’ve decided to have a go changing the pattern I have for the Marlborough bra from orange lingerie to a longline bra.

Here is the result of my endeavours.

 

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My original plan was to use this very good tutorial from the Fairy Bra Mother. Sadly there was an issue, the band pattern she adapted had parallel edges and so you could just extend the band pieces straight down. My band pieces didn’t have a parallel edges, which means I couldn’t just follow her excellent instructions, I had to change the pattern to make the edges parallel first and then extend them. I put on an extra couple of inches so they came to the bottom of my ribs.

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My band edges were at different angles so I couldn’t use the tutorial like I hoped.

Once I extended the band I thought it was probably a good idea to make a mock up, I was pretty sure the cups would be fine as they were the same as my previous Marlborough bras but I wanted to check the band was still OK now I’d altered it. Here is my very attractive and sexy mock up from some scrap cotton I had, a bit firmer that the material I was going to use but unlined.

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Not my finest work but did the job to check out the band.

After that it was just a case of constructing my bra from the actual fabric.

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So it is a really good fit, except this super slippy fabric must have slipped when I was cutting the bridge as it has come out wider than it should have done and I didn’t notice until way too late. In future I will definitely be checking this with slippy fabrics, I’ve used them before but will something so accurate as a bra it makes a big difference to be a bit out. It still fits fine, and is comfortable but it would be better a bit narrower.

I quite liked the length, and the band was a good fit, I could make it a tiny bit narrower but I’m talking about 1 cm around the whole band so a very tiny change.

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Not sure this double bow isn’t a little too much. Thoughts? I love the fabric so much, it seems so perfect for a longline bra, it has been part of my collection for a couple of years and I wasn’t sure what to do with it.

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It was my first time using hook and eye tape. Not exactly sure how your supposed to edge it but I just attached it using a zigzag stitch and cut up to the stitch line. It’s not quick to get in and out of… 😉

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Fully lined so it’s pretty on the inside too…

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From all of these photos I can see I need to steam the elastic a little, it’s stretched whilst I was sewing and steaming can help straighten it back out.

To finish it off I was debating whether of not to add side boning to give it some extra support and stop it riding up. I’m going to wear it a few times and see if it rides up or not and then decide on side boning. There is a good tutorial on how to add side boning here.

I feel that matching high waisted panties are in order- has anyone tried the new Maxine panties yet?