Longline hack of the Marlborough bra

I’ve been lusting after some very nice longline underwired bra patterns recently, but there aren’t many in my size so I’ve decided to have a go changing the pattern I have for the Marlborough bra from orange lingerie to a longline bra.

Here is the result of my endeavours.

 

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My original plan was to use this very good tutorial from the Fairy Bra Mother. Sadly there was an issue, the band pattern she adapted had parallel edges and so you could just extend the band pieces straight down. My band pieces didn’t have a parallel edges, which means I couldn’t just follow her excellent instructions, I had to change the pattern to make the edges parallel first and then extend them. I put on an extra couple of inches so they came to the bottom of my ribs.

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My band edges were at different angles so I couldn’t use the tutorial like I hoped.

Once I extended the band I thought it was probably a good idea to make a mock up, I was pretty sure the cups would be fine as they were the same as my previous Marlborough bras but I wanted to check the band was still OK now I’d altered it. Here is my very attractive and sexy mock up from some scrap cotton I had, a bit firmer that the material I was going to use but unlined.

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Not my finest work but did the job to check out the band.

After that it was just a case of constructing my bra from the actual fabric.

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So it is a really good fit, except this super slippy fabric must have slipped when I was cutting the bridge as it has come out wider than it should have done and I didn’t notice until way too late. In future I will definitely be checking this with slippy fabrics, I’ve used them before but will something so accurate as a bra it makes a big difference to be a bit out. It still fits fine, and is comfortable but it would be better a bit narrower.

I quite liked the length, and the band was a good fit, I could make it a tiny bit narrower but I’m talking about 1 cm around the whole band so a very tiny change.

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Not sure this double bow isn’t a little too much. Thoughts? I love the fabric so much, it seems so perfect for a longline bra, it has been part of my collection for a couple of years and I wasn’t sure what to do with it.

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It was my first time using hook and eye tape. Not exactly sure how your supposed to edge it but I just attached it using a zigzag stitch and cut up to the stitch line. It’s not quick to get in and out of… 😉

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Fully lined so it’s pretty on the inside too…

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From all of these photos I can see I need to steam the elastic a little, it’s stretched whilst I was sewing and steaming can help straighten it back out.

To finish it off I was debating whether of not to add side boning to give it some extra support and stop it riding up. I’m going to wear it a few times and see if it rides up or not and then decide on side boning. There is a good tutorial on how to add side boning here.

I feel that matching high waisted panties are in order- has anyone tried the new Maxine panties yet?

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